Last



W. H. S. TULL LAST ' Filed Oct. 25, 1955 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 ATTORNEY 0m. 8 1935 v W, H s, 'TULL zm ewM LAST Filed Oct. 23, 1953 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Oct. 8, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFKIE LAST Walter Harold Salsbury Tull, Hampstead, England 17 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of and lasts for use in lasting and/or relasting shoes and the like, the said lasts being of the kind which are rectilineally and obliquely split in a forward direction with or without a step which on co -opera.- ble oblique flat and straight faces form co-operable abutment surfaces in the length of the split.

The invention is applicable more particularly although not exclusively to turn fabric court shoes and the relasting thereof for the following reasons. Unlike a leather upper there is no yield or stretch in a fabric upper and yet a last the base of which is larger than the gap between the edges of the upper must be inserted on rel-asting the shoe through the smaller quarters. Although there is no diiiiculty in lasting a shoe trouble arises when attempting to withdraw the last and reinserting the last or relasting. At the present time the result or" attempting this on existing'lasts is so-disastrous that turn shoes are dying out to a great extent because of the fact that manufacturers are unable tostand the losses occasioned by damages and rejects. In trying to avoid these rejects by not lasting tightly the result is that the shoes do not fit. Turn shoes are the most difiicult to make yet the most comfortable towear if they fit and the present invention provides a last which overcomes these difiiculties and by which-the operator is enabled to insert the base of the last between the edges of the uppers, that is to say, to insert the greater object through the lesser opening. The operator can also last tightly knowing he can relast without any splits, breaks or damages and with the full knowledge that the larger base of the last will go through the smaller gap between the quarters without the aid of shoe lifts, dull knives or other implements now in use all of which take up room and rob the quarters of bite or snap. Existing lasts cannot be used in a manner according to the present invention nor can the same results or effects be produced by the use of lasts heretofore-extant.

As is well known, turn shoes are first lasted outside in. The uppers are sewn to the sole, and whilst the uppers, soles, stiffeners and toepuffs are in a mulled and mellow condition, the shoes are turned inside out and relasted. It is also known that all lasts, especially court shoe lasts, are much larger across the base than across the tops or quarters, and as the first principle in shoe making is to last tightly, or in common trade parlance, to get on to the wood, the operator is faced with the difiicultyo'i withdrawing the last, withits larger base, through-the smaller quarters, and the still greater difficulty of relasting or re- (Cl. 12I35) inserting the last after the shoe is turned, and whilst the upper is still in this damp condition. Consequently, if the operator lasts tightly he can only relast by stretching .or even splitting, the quarters. If he does not last tightly, in orderto '5 overcome his .relasting difliculty, the shoes cannot fit.

The object of the present invention is to overcome the above mentioned objectionable defect by providing an improyed method of relasting as 10 well as an improved construction of last which permits of ready ingress of the last into as well as egress of the last from the shoe without distortion of the shoe and results in the provision .of a shoe which is cheaper and has a more effecl5 tive gripping action at the tops or quarters when in use without gaping thereof.

According to the present invention a method for use in lasting and/ or relasting shoes and the like more particularly shoes of the court type by 20 means of a last of the kind above referred to consists in inserting the toe of a last into .the toe of .a shoe and thereafter imparting .a tilting or tilting and sliding movement to an associated heel part of the last in order .to cause the associated heel part of the last to assume gradually and progressively it .normal upright operative .position in the heel of'the shoe. Suchtilting or tilting and sliding movement may beimparted by manually operable mechanical means which when operated cause the heel and toe parts of the last to fit the shoe snugly. More specifically the method consists in introducing or inserting the toe of .theilast into the toe of the shoe with the heel portion tilted into such aposition asto enter the basal edge and at least part of the upright back edge of the heel portion .between opposite edges of the uppers and subsequently imparting a tilting or tilting and sliding movement to the heel .portion by manually operable :mechanical means in order to ex- 40 tend the vheel portion of the last into the heel of the shoe. If desired the :heel portion may be tilted forward and superposed above .the toe part of the last or the two lower and adjacent oblique fiat faces on the toe and heel may be butted in order to facilitate forcing of the toe part of :the last into the toe part of the shoe the heel part being then tiltedintoiapositionsuch that thebasal edgeandat least a part of the-upright back edge of the heel portion may engage between the edges-of the uppersa tilting: and sliding movement being subsequently imparted :to the heel portion by manually operable mechanical ameansin order to extend the heel and toe portions of the last into the heel and toe of the .shoe respectively.

Further in accordance with the method of the present invention the length of the last may be reduced either before or after insertion of the toe of the last into the toe of the shoe by tilting the heel portion into a superposed position partly over the toe and into a tilted position rearwardly of and away from the toe. In the latter position the major portion of the heel part may extend below the instep arch of the last the tilted heel or the superposed heel after being moved into the tilted position being subsequently extended into engagement with the heel of the shoe by manually operable mechanical means. In removing the last from the shoe the manually operable mechanical means which also act to clamp the toe part and the heel part of the last rigidly in operative position are manipulated so as to impart a simultaneous sliding and turning movement to the heel part of the last in order to tilt and simultaneously withdraw the said heel part of the shoe heel. A last of the kind aforesaid and in accordance with the present invention is provided with a heel tiltable into a position to reduce the length of the last and with manually operable means to effect the extension of the toe and heel parts of the last to their effective operative length with the toe and heel parts of the last snugly fitting the toe and heel of the shoe. The heel part of the last which is preferably associated with the toe part by a slotted link is rectilineally displaceable from the associated toe part and tiltable relatively thereto by manually operable mechanical means to cause the said heel part to fit the heel part of the shoe snugly. It should be clearly understood however that when the manually operable means are disconnected the heel part is slidable and tiltable into a position relatively to the toe part such that a large portion of the lower surface or base of the heel part extends below the edge formed by the adjacent oblique face of the toe part and the adjoining arch surface on the lower part of the last. Further features of the invention are hereinafter described and set forth in the appended claims.

In order that the invention may be clearly understood and readily carried into eifect reference is made to the accompanying drawings which show diagrammatically and by way of example a construction of last in accordance with the present invention.

Figure 1 is an elevation partly in section of a last in accordance with the present invention the heel portion of the last being shown in its rearmost position.

Figure 2 is an elevation partly in section show ing the toe portion of the last inserted into a shoe of the type hereinbefore referred to the heel portion of the last in this figure being shown butted against the toe part so as to facilitate pushing the toe part of the last into the toe of the shoe.

Figure 3 is a perspective view of the last in the position shown in Figure 2.

Figure 4 is an elevation partly in section showing the position of the heel portion just before engagement of the manually operable mechanical means to effect tilting and sliding and clamping of the heel portion.

Figure 5 is an elevation partly in section showing the last in operative position in a shoe of the aforesaid type.

Figure 6 is an elevation partly in section showing a possible position of the heel which may be utilized to assist in pushing the toe part of the last into the toe of the shoe. It will be obvious that the butting position of adjacent oblique faces on the heel and toe part as shown in Figure 2 is the best for the purpose of pushing the toe of the last into the toe of the shoe.

Referring to the drawings the last which as will be seen from the drawings is rectilineally and 5 obliquely split is preferably composed of wood and comprises a toe part I and a heel part 2 approximately shaped to the corresponding parts of the foot. The two rectilineal oblique faces are stepped as shown in the drawings the stepped 10 joint being provided at any suitable point in the length of the split. The toe part I is connected to the heel part 2 by a link 3 which is pivotally connected to both parts as at 4 and 5 by pins or other suitable means, the link 3 being arranged in slots 5 in the toe and heel parts. The slot in the heel part serves to permit of the heel part being angularly displaced or tilted relatively to the toe part. To permit of sliding movement of the heel part 2 the link 3 is slotted as at I through which slot the pivot pin 5 passes and is suitably secured beneath the step in the toe portion. As shown in the drawings the slot 1 is provided in the toe end of the link 3 but the said slot 1 may be provided in the heel end of the link and the pin 4 arranged to pass therethrough, or a slot such as I may be provided in both ends. of the link 3. One member in the form of an internally screw threaded sleeve 8 of the manually operable mechanical means is pivotally mounted on the pin 5 and is adapted to be engaged by a correspondingly screw threaded pin 9 rotatably mounted in the instep H3 of the heel part 2. The pin 9 is provided with collars I! between which is a groove 52 engaged by a pin 83 in order to prevent axial displacement of the pin 9 relatively to the heel part 2. The pin 9 and the sleeve 8 constitute manually operable mechanical means to effect tilting of the heel part 2 because when these two parts are disengaged the heel part 2 is free of the toe part i except for the interconnecting link 3. By engaging the pin 9 in the sleeve 8 and turning the pin 9 in the correct direction by means of a squared end on the pin 9 the heel is slid from the position shown in Figure 4 to the position shown in Figure 5. The engagement of the pin 9 with the sleeve 8 results in tilting or tilting and sliding of the heel 2 snugly into the corresponding heel portion of the shoe. The sleeve 8 and pin 9 when screwed home also act to clamp the toe part i and the heel part 2 rigidly in operative position as shown in Figure 5. The inner surface of the stepped joint on the heel part is provided with two pins I l (only one of which is shown in the drawings) which engage in recesses E5 in the adjacent face of the step on the toe part Such an arrangement preents relative lateral movement of the toe and heel parts when in normal or operative position. The toe part I is recessed in such manner as to provide a stop I 6 having a bevelled edge I! which limits the movement of the sleeve 8 towards the heel portion so that the sleeve 8 is always easy of access to permit of the ready engagement of the pin a therewith. The stop it is shown only in Figure 1 but is omitted from the remaining figures in order to show the slot therebehind and in which the toe end of the link 3 moves. Obviously the arrangement of the pin 9 and the sleeve 8 may be reversed that is to say the sleeve 8 may be mounted in the heel part and the pin 9 may be carried by the toe part. In such an arrangement the outer end of the sleeve would be squared or otherwise adapted to permit of the sleeve being rotated to engage the pin in the heel part.

Further the pin 9 and the sleeve 8 may be replaced by a rod having a right and left hand screw thread in which .arrangement the right and left handed screw threaded rod would be engaged by nuts or pivoted nuts correspondingly screw threaded and provided one in the heel part and one in the toe part at or about the positions of the pins and I3. To effect rotation of the right and left hand screw threaded rod the latter can be provided with a squared outer end for use with a box key or other suitable means. If desired the slot 7 may be omitted in such an arrangement and likewise the pin 4 in which arrangement however the link 3 and the rod corresponding to the sleeve 8 would be formed either as rigidly interconnected members or in one piece. It will be seen from Figure 1 that the heel part 2 can be tilted into a position relatively to the toe part such that a large portion of the heel part can project below the edge 58 formed by the adjacent oblique face on the toe part i and the adjoining arch below the instep of the last. Further it should be noted that the sleeve 8 and the link 3 are mounted on a pin 5 forming a pivotal axis common to both. The pivotal connection at 5 is a permanent connection and slidable by reason of the slot l' in the link 3 whereas the tilting and clamping connection formed by the sleeve 8 and the pin 9 is of a temporary nature and disconnection thereof can be effected at any time. The angles A, B, C, Figure 5, relatively to a horizontal line when the last is in operative position in the shoe may be conveniently as fol1ows:-A=139, B:15, C=26 but any other suitable angular values may be chosen or used.

The modus operandi of inserting a last in accordance with the present invention into a shoe is approximately as follows:

The last is gripped by the hand for example the right hand with the two parts probably in the positions shown in Figure 1. The toe part i is then introduced into the toe of the shoe the probable result thereof being the displacement of the heel part 2 into butting contact with the toe part I as shown in Figure 2 that is to say with the oblique faces 59 and 2B of the heel part 2 and the toe part I respectively in butting contact. In this position the basal edge 2| or widest surface of the heel part 2 together with the narrowest part of the heel and at least a part of the normally upright back edge 22 of the heel part 2 have passed through the widest and narrowest parts respectively of the gap between the edge of the uppers and are already in the shoe. Force is then extended on the heel part 2 and the toe part i is pushed as far forward as possible. Thereafter the pin 9 is engaged with the sleeve 8 and by turning the pin 9 in the proper direction the heel part 2 is caused to gradually tilt and slide from the position shown in Figure 4 into the position shown in Figure 5 in which the heel and toe parts of the last fit the shoe snugly. In moving the heel from the position shown in Figure 2 to the position shown in. Figure 4 the heel part 2 is slid downwardly along the faces I9 and 2!! thus sliding the link 3 and simultaneously therewith rotating the link into the position shown in Figure 4. As already stated the pin 9 is then engaged with the sleeve 8 and the tilting and sliding action is effected until completed as shown in Figure 5. To remove the last from the shoe the screw 9 is rotated in the proper direction which imparts a forward sliding and tilting movement to the rear part of the heel. Continued rotation of the pin 9 disengages the pin from the sleeve, then if necessary the heel part of the last can be manually manipulated into the position shown in Figure 2 or into the position shown in Figure 4 in either position of which positions the last can be readily removed from the shoe without distortion or 5 stretching or straining the uppers more particularly at the edge 23. It will be readily understood that no distortion or strain is imparted to the edge 23 when entering the heel portion of the last into the shoe. 10

It will be appreciated that the method hereinbefore described of inserting the improved last into position in a fabric and/or leather shoe results in shoes which will have a more effective gripping action when in use than similar shoes as heretofore made because by the use of the improved last the latter can be removed or inserted without stretching the shoe at the edge of the uppers thereby avoiding gaping thereof. Shoes produced in accordance with the present 'invention have a more attractive appearance and are of a higher standard than similar shoes heretofore produced.

It will be understood that although reference is made to the manufacture of turn-shoes and court shoes the invention is also applicable to all other forms of shoes where lasts have to be slipped for instance to heel the shoe and reinserted to finish the shoe or in general to effect lasting and/or relasting.

By the improved method hereinbefore described and the improved construction of last, shoes can be lasted and/0r relasted without in any way disturbing the quarters of the shoes, in other words the last can be inserted with ease owing to the reduction in length of the last effected by the tiltable nature of the heel. The two parts of the last can be engaged and screwed together thus distributing the stress equally between the top and the bottom which is the larger or base portion of the last without affecting the quarters of the shoe in any injurious way. According to the invention the larger portions of the last do not pass through the quarters in such manner as to disturb the said quarters and therefore close fitting of the shoe is preserved. The larger portions of the last pass in and out of the quarters in a tilted position and it is only when stretching that is to say extending the parts into their operative positions that the larger portions of the last occupy a stretching position.

What I claim is:-

1. A last including a toe part and a heel part, the respective parts having forwardly inclined and approximately flat meeting faces, and a connection between the parts to limit and to define their relative movement, the said connection permitting the bottom edge of the heel part of the last to be moved in contact with an inclined face of the toe part of the last in order to permit the introduc- 0 tion firstly of the narrowest basal rear portion of the heel part of the last into the shoe followed by the entry of the widest part of the heel between the uppers of the shoe.

2. A last including a toe part and a heel part, as the respective parts having forwardly inclined and relatively fiat meeting faces, and a connection between the parts to limit and to define their relative movement, the said connection permitting the bottom edge of the heel part of the last being moved in contact with an inclined face on the toe part of the last in order to permit the introduction firstly of the narrowest portion of the heel part of the last followed by the entry of the widestpart of the heel between the uppers of the shoe, the said connection thereafter compelling tilting and sliding movement of the heel part of the last within the body of the shoe to a final position.

3. A last including a toe part, a heel part, a single connection permitting free relative pivotal and sliding movements between the parts, and mechanical means carried by the respective parts to compel relative movement therebetvveen.

4. A last including a toe part, a heel part, forwardly inclined flat meeting faces on the said parts, and a connection between the parts to permit a relative tilting movement of the parts on the meeting faces and thereafter compel a relative sliding movement of the heel part of the last.

5. A last including a toe part and a heel part, the meeting faces of the parts being formed as forwardly inclined fiat surfaces, and a connection between the parts permitting an initial tilting movement of the heel part on the forwardly inclined fiat surface of the toe part and thereafter compelling a tilting and sliding movement of the heel part into final last-forming position.

6. A last including a toe part and a heel part, the meeting faces of the parts being formed as relatively offset inclined flat surfaces, and a connection between the parts to limit and to define their relative movement, the said connection permitting sliding cooperation between the base portion of the heel part of the last and one of the said inclined surfaces of the toe part and thereafter compelling a rearward movement of the heel part of the last relatively to the toe part until the meeting faces of the last parts are in contact.

'7. A last including a toe part and a heel part, a link connecting the parts and providing relative tilting and sliding movement thereof, and cooperating threaded elements carried by the toe part and by the heel part and manually operable to compel movement of the parts.

8. A last including a toe part, a heel part, a link connecting the parts and permitting relative tilting and sliding movement of the parts, a threaded socket carried by the toe part, and a manually operable threaded stem carried by the heel part to engage said socket and compel relative movement of the parts.

9. A last including a toe part and a heel part, the meeting faces of the toe and heel parts being formed as forwardly inclined fiat surfaces, a link connecting the last parts, the said link having a pivotal connection with each part and a sliding connection with at least one part, and manually operable mechanical means to compel relative movement of the parts from a collapsed to an operative relation.

10. A construction as defined in claim 9, in which the manually operable means includes a threaded socket carried by one part and a cooperating threaded stem carried by the other part.

11. A last including a toe part and a heel part, the meeting faces of said parts when in lastforming position defining a flat forwardly inclined surface, and a link pivotally and slidably connecting the parts, the said link permitting the base of the heel part of the last to be moved in contact with the inclined meeting face of the toe part of the last during the introduction of the heel part into the shoe, whereby the narrowest portion of the heel part of the last may be firstly introduced forwardly of the rear end of the shoe opening and between the uppers.

12. A last including a toe part and a heel part, the divisions between the parts providing a plurality of fiat meeting faces inclined with respect to the horizontal line through the last when in operative position, and a connection between the parts to permit relative pivotal and sliding movements of the parts in interfitting said fiat meeting faces to assemble the parts in last forming relation.

13. A last including-a toe part and a heel part, the divisions between the parts providing a plurality of flat meeting faces inclined with respect to the horizontal line through the last when in operative position, two of such faces being substantially parallel and the third at substantially right angles to such parallel faces, and a connection between the parts permitting their relative pivotal and sliding movement in the interfitting of the meeting faces during arrangement of the parts in last forming relation.

14. A last including a toe part and a heel part formed with interfitting meeting faces, a connection between the parts permitting the bottom of the heel part to be arranged in contact with one of the meeting faces of the toe part in the initial application of the last into the shoe, said connection compelling sliding and pivotal movement of the heel part with respect to the toe part to compel the heel part to move gradually rearwardly with respect to the toe part and at the same time swing with respect to the toe part toward a normal last forming relation to the toe part, and manually operable elements carried by the toe part and heel part to compel the described movement of the heel part.

15. A last including 'a toe part and a heel part formed with interfitting meeting faces, a connection between the parts permitting the bottom of the heel part tobe arranged in contact with one of the meeting faces of the toe part in the initial application of the last into the shoe, said connection compelling sliding and pivotal movement of the heel part with respect to the toe part to compel the heel part to move gradually rearwardly with respect to the toe part and at the same time swing with respect to the toe part toward a normal last forming relation to the toe part, and manually operable elements carried by the toe part and heel part to compel the described movement of the heel part, the toe part carried element being mounted for swinging movement with respect to the toe part.

16. A last including a toe part and heel part formed with interfitting meeting faces, the lowermost face on the toe part being inclined downwardly and rearwardly with respect to the toe part, a link pivotally and slidably connecting the heel part and toe part, said link permitting the bottom surface of the heel part to be arranged in contact with the lowermost face of the toe part during application of the last to the shoe, said link, under pressure on the heel part, compelling such heel part to be slidably guided by the inclined face of the toe part and to swing with respect to the toe part until the meeting faces of the toe and heel parts are interfitted in last forming relation, and manually operable means to exert pressure upon the heel part to compel the defined movement of such part.

1'7. A last including a toe part and heel part formed with interfitting meeting faces, the lowermost face on the toe part being inclined downwardly and rearwardly with respect to the toe part, a link pivotally and slidably connecting the heel part and toe part, said link permitting the bottom surface of the heel part to be arranged in contact with the lowermost face of the toe part during application of the last to the shoe, said link, under pressure on the heel part, compelling such heel part to be slidably guided by the inclined face of the toe part and to swing with re- 5 spect to the toe part until the meeting faces of the toe and heel parts are interfitted in last forming relation, and manually operable means to exert pressure upon the heel part to compel the defined movement of such part, said manually operable means having swinging connection with the toe part.

WALTER HAROLD SALSBURY TULL. 

